Tuesday, October 14, 2014

THE AMAZING ANIMAL ORPHANAGE NANYUKI

I know people may have visited an animal orphanage before.  There is one in Nairobi that I have never been to, and too be honest, I haven’t heard a lot of good reviews about it.  When we stayed at Nanyuki a few months ago at the Fairmont Mt Kenya Safari Club, there is an animal orphanage next to the hotel, it’s not part of the hotel, but you could be forgiven thinking that it is as it is on the same grounds.  We figured we would visit the orphanage on our last morning before the 3 hour drive back to the city.

The cost for the animal orphanage was 1500 KSH (20AUD) and even though it seemed a little steep, we still decided we would still take the time and spend the money to have a look.  A portion of the money goes back into the Wildlife Services Fund, so it makes the cost that much more acceptable.  After we paid, we were given our tickets and we were pointed in the direction of the animals.  We entered through a small gate and walked past a very large vegetable patch where the food is grown for all our 4 legged friends to one last gate to enter into the animal sanctuary.  It was an open air area with different enclosures and there were some monkeys, some bongo and some other small animals that were roaming freely.  The monkeys are a little scary.  I am not a fan of them, as they are smart, nimble and cunning animals and besides the colobus monkeys I am not a fan.  Even the baby ones, so when one little guy came up to say hi, I freaked, which bought one of the rangers over and said he would get our ranger to take us around the orphanage.  At first glance the section didn’t look that big and we were all thinking that if this is what we paid the 20 bucks for, then it was a little overpriced, but we were going to pleasantly surprised.
The Animal Orphanage at the Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy is a unique facility to give orphaned, injured, neglected, abused or frightened wild animals a second chance. The orphanage provides shelter and professional care with the goal to release these creatures back into the wild where they belong.  The Story of the Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy is as full of colour, romance and memorable incident – both human and animal – as any of the classic Out of Africa sagas.

Yet it’s never been told.

It all began like this… Two young Americans met up in East Africa for the first time in 1964. They were in Kenya, their country of choice, for no good purpose other than to enjoy themselves. Do a Teddy Roosevelt – go off on wild adventurous safaris in the bush, hunting and fishing, and collecting themselves a bag of the fabled “Big Game” trophies.  Kenya was newly independent of British colonial rule and under the Republic’s founding President, “Mzee” Jomo Kenyatta, they found the reborn “Black African” land both a warm and welcoming place – and of beauty beyond description. They bonded closely over the course of their Safaris into the wildest parts of Kenya. But the thrill of hunting soon began to wane. What they came to realize was that the sheer pleasure and personal reward they received from the African “bush” experience were not from the destruction of wildlife but from feelings of wonder and exhilaration at its very existence in a timeless natural environment. From that point, they made a pact to do what they could to protect and preserve the animals.  It was at first a day-dream, but over time they began to talk more seriously about the possibility of owning a small private part of the wild, with no other agenda than to fulfil their commitment.  It would eventually happen. They found a stretch of pristine rangeland and so began what would be a lifetime’s work of developing the first project of its kind in “Black Africa” – The Mount Kenya Game Ranch.  The two friends and partners in the enterprise were film actor William (Bill) Holden and TV personality, Don Hunt.

They eventually found their perfect site – 1,216 acres of rough marginal rangeland nestling in the foothills of Mount Kenya, surrounding the world-famous Mount Kenya Safari Club. Owners Jim and Betty-Ann Nicholsen were elderly and finally tiring of a hard life of subsistence on a small annual wheat crop and a few sheep they ran on the land. They were ready to sell.  The deal with the Nicholsens was duly done and the farm acquired. Dean Johnson, a well-known U.S. Attorney and Bill’s close friend and mentor, joined the group to oversee the legalities.  From day one, for all the partners, Kenya would remain “Timeless Africa”.  It would take up many hours of deep and meaningful musings around the campfire on safari, or, more soberly, at breakfast at the ranch, watching the snowy peaks of Mount Kenya gleaming in the early light.  The farm was all but devoid of wildlife. It bordered dense forest land and the Mount Kenya National Park, where traditionally, animals had been hunted for meat – but also, increasingly at the time, poached for illegal trade in horns and skins. The game warden and his staff did all they could to contain the onslaught of commercial poaching.  Increasing human settlement posed a further threat to wildlife and people alike. What were once traditional migratory routes for the game became “conflict zones” and the animals were seen as trespassers to be chased off or shot. The conflict has yet to be resolved.

Holden and Hunts’ future plans included the establishment of an education centre as a part of their Ranch, where Kenyan students could learn about wildlife. It was a project especially important to Bill Holden. He was in the midst of drawing up architectural plans for the education centre when he passed away unexpectedly in 1981.  Many of Bill Holden’s influential and famous friends wanted to help financially so that Holden’s dream could be realized.  In 1982 the William Holden Wildlife Foundation was formed in his honour, with the purpose to work and assist in Kenya with the wildlife education of its youth.  Holden’s companion of many years, Stefanie Powers took over as chairman of the Foundation, with Don as Vice Chairman and Iris Hunt, Deane Johnson and Julian McKeand as Directors.  Don and Iris Hunt donated 15 acres of their land to be used as the site of the education centre.  Together the team build a unique education facility that today is visited by over 10,000 students annually, free of charge to them.  The education centre also operates an outreach program, builds libraries in schools and generally assists needy schools with a view to environmental education. With the help of his partners in Kenya and friends around the world, William Holden’s dream has become a reality.  Quite a beautiful story really, and typical of Africa, where dreams and visions take peoples breath away every day and what a wonderful cause that is still going strong today 50 years later. 

Our guide took us around the first section of the facility and we got our first introduction to an animal called a Bongo.  Seriously, a Bongo.  I don’t think I have EVEER seen one of these guys in the wild and I have done a lot of hours in a truck in search of wonderful African animals.  The bongo is the largest and heaviest forest antelope and these spiral-horned creatures are found only in special dense forest habitats across tropical Africa. The western or lowland bongo lives mostly at night and is among the largest of the African forest antelope species.  Our guide, Cam, had pulled some weeds and as we waved them around, these animals that looked a little like oversized Bambi’s with stripes, came right up to us and ate the proffered weeds right from our hands.  They seemed very passive and gentle and they even let us give them a small pay, even the little baby.  It was so cool.  Something has to be said about getting that close to an African animal, for me these guys are the epitome of Africa, and to get an opportunity to come close to any African animal is ALWAYS a highlight and something that I will NEVER get tired of.  EVER.  Along with the Rothschild giraffe, the eastern bongo is arguably one of the most threatened large mammals in Africa, with recent estimates numbering less than 140 animals, below a minimum sustainable viable population. The situation is exacerbated because these animals are spread across four isolated populations.  Eleven baby bongos have since been born to at the MKWC herd and kept in the safety of the Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy.  The Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy’s Bongo Rehabilitation program was named amongst the three most important wildlife projects worldwide in 2006 (by AZA).
After saying goodbye to the monkeys and the Bongo’s, we exited the first section through another gate, walked a small path and out another gate 20m along and like a blinding light and trumpets playing we entered into another open air area with more enclosures and a few more animal roaming freely.  The first animal I saw was the baby GIRAFFE!!!!!!!!!!!  A BABY GIRAFFE!.  This was totally worth paying the 20 bucks just to see the baby GIRAFFE.  It’s not the first time I have fed a giraffe, I have been to the Giraffe centre plenty of times, but to get this close, stand right next to this 10 week old giraffe was AMAZING to say the least.  Cam gave us some leaves that we could feed the baby giraffe, and even at 10 weeks old she was half a meter taller than me!  We had to hold the leaves above our head so that she didn’t have to bend her neck to eat and she sucked those leaves right off the branch, which I held, in MY hand.  I could have spent all day just with the baby giraffe.  INCREDIBLE.  We had to be careful that she didn’t kick us, as they are known to be kickers and after a few photos we left the baby in peace and continued our tour. 

In the next 1.5 hours we saw owls, an African lynx or caracal that is a member of the cat family,  Llama’s that were first brought into Kenya by an American family for use in expeditions up Mt. Kenya. There are now 36 in total, and they comfortably survive here because the climate is similar to that in the Andes Mountains of South America.  Primates are also bred here including the my favourite, the black and white colobus monkeys, which are endangered because of their beautiful fur coats, which are still used by some tribes as headdresses and garments and I was able to get a photo opportunity with, some warthogs, dik diks, a bushbuck, waterbucks, pygmy hippos, more bongos, Hartebeest, ostriches, a 150 year old tortoise that has been at the orphanage for 40 years (and you were able to RIDE on his humongous shelled back and some cheetahs to name a few of the animals we saw.  The other highlight of the morning was seeing a zebroid (also zedonk, zorse, zebra mule, zonkey, and zebrule) which is the offspring of any cross between a zebra and any other equine: essentially, a zebra hybrid. In most cases, the sire is a zebra stallion.  Pete the Zebroid is one of the only ones of their kind left in the world. It takes time to get used to their seemingly odd appearance, what with their combination of black Grevy's zebra stripes on a horse's brown body. He was bred in the early 70's by a hunter who wanted the perfect pack-animal and was one of the few where it happened ‘naturally’ and wasn’t artificially inseminated.  Pete has outlived the average age of a horse and also of a zebra at the grand old age of 33!!!!
So as the saying goes, NEVER judge a book by its cover.  The 20AUD entry was worth every cent and if you are in the region, I would highly recommend a visit to the Animal Orphanage at the Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy.  TOTAL highlight for me.

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