Tuesday, November 5, 2013

MADGE SPITS THE DUMMY-GUINEA

Travel and change of place impart new vigor to the mind.
-Seneca-

We were leaving Labe today and heading for the wilds of Guinea for the next day, possibly 2 as we make our way to the border of Guinea Bissau.  We have 2 bush camps allocated, hoping we only need one and that we don’t need an EBC (an emergency bush camp) making 3 bush camps, which would be the pits, as we have done that already, but fingers crossed it doesn’t turn into that.  I know I sound like a broken record, but it really depends on the unknown conditions of the roads and with the rain that came down all night, it does make the roads a little more challenging than the normal challenging.  Breakfast was set for 8.30am and they all had the pie that I was given yesterday morning, plus the usual baguette, jam and coffee.  The group was still a little off kilter after their massive day yesterday and the drama of getting home last night, but they were all in high spirits and we were all getting ready for an on time departure at 9.30am. 

At 9.20am, Zoe went to turn the truck on and it went click, and no noise.  I was standing right near the door when she attempted the first time and I knew that it was bad news.  The first question that Zoe asked was if I had charged anything on Madge while they were away, and I could thankfully answer no, because I would have felt really bad if I had and then Madge didn’t start.  Because Madge wasn’t going to be driven for 2 whole days, before they left Sam disconnected the battery, which was a new one that they had obtained in Freetown.  Madge had also decided to not start there and hence the new battery.  I guess now that it has been the second time in a week that the battery has gone flat may indicate that there may be another issue beside the battery, but that is my untrained and mechanical mind saying that and I am certainly no judge as I can’t even change a tyre.  So Zoe faffed around a bit, checking the battery and fiddling with a few things while Sam finalized the hotel payments and then he came out and then the searching for the problem and solution started in earnest.  The tour company guy Sulu was there this morning to say good-bye, which was just as well, as he made a phone call and within 30 minutes a guy turned up in an old model Mercedes and had a truck battery at the ready, just like that.  Like I said I am not mechanical minded at all, but they had jumper leads and people around and a group of us just watched the goings on and the others decided it would be a perfect opportunity to pull out the Scrabble board.  I think that was an indication that we may be a little longer than expected.  The one battery didn’t have enough oomph, so the Mercedes guy went and got another one and they tried that to no avail.  That clicking sound was very depressing each time Zoe was told to start the truck.  Plan C was to get another truck in to jump start it from a running battery. 

So we had to wait another 30 minutes, which in Africa time is pretty good and then the Calvary arrived in the form of a massive yellow tip truck just after 11am, along with 6 more local people.  So Canary (my name for the new arrival) was parked as close to Madge as they could get her, so that the jumper leads would reach and with her running, Madge was turned over and was still dead as a door nail.  CRAP.  This got people scratching their heads, as we all really thought that that would have been the answer.  The thought was out there that the fridge had drained the battery, so this was disconnected and then it was a process of elimination trying all sorts of things and then turning over Madge to see if she would start.  Nothing worked, so an electrician was called to see if he could isolate what the problem was.  So we waited for another 30 minutes and then the electrician arrived and after that it was a little bit of a blur, with Canary getting started and turned off, Madge trying to kick over, Sam and Zoe under the truck and the 6 locals that came with Canary also putting in there 10c, there was a lot going on.  Scrabble was still being played and can you believe that Lord Byron, who hadn’t plated before started the game with a 90 point word ‘whopped’ and ended up winning the game.  Talk about beginners luck.  Helen pulled out an 83 point word with ‘seventy’, but can you believe Lord Byron’s luck.  Hilarious and he was that tickled pink he had to come out and tell us all his fluky fortune and then ran back in to finish the game. 

It was now coming up to 12 noon and Madge was still clicking unsuccessfully.  We had our photo taken by some foreign guys who happen to spend 5 months of the year in Guinea.  They said it was unusual to see tourists at all in the region, let alone a group of us travelling together on a truck.  There are a few more foreigners around, but they are all here for work with aid agencies and NGO work, so I guess we are a little unusual!!!!  I was trying to help with the whole situation by speaking soothing words to Madge, and a few gentle strokes, which didn’t seem to help one iota and was my only contribution.  In the meantime Cathy asked if she could borrow my adapter and use our room to charge some things, obviously with Madge out of power, it wasn’t a good idea to even ask to charge something, but it would have been funny, but possibly not the right time.  So we got Rich to pass all the required stuff out the window as we couldn’t get in or out of the truck and Cath went to the room to plug in and in the meantime I was waiting next to the truck and Canary started up and I got super excited that it was Madge, and I whooped (90 point word) and then realized that it was not Madge and then Zoe tried Madge and she started and this time I could whoop a (90 point word) and we were back in business.  YOU BEAUTY.  Funnily Cath came straight back out of the room and said that would be right and I told her she should have done that 2 hours ago, Murphy’s Law strikes again.  It didn’t take Canary long to leave, and I guess they had other work to do, Mercedes man was given a payment and the electrician hung around a little longer to take a look around, but then we really had to hit the road and he was paid for his time and then we were locked and loaded pulling out of the hotel at 12.30pm.  Three hours late wasn’t too bad……          

We had to stop in town to purchase some fresh food for the coming days, namely bread, eggs and sandwich supplies, and luckily Ready Steady Cock only has to do a breakfast and a lunch in 3 days’ time, so we only needed eggs and we would try and get further supplies in a few days.  I had a good look at the cooking roster and I think our team has done pretty well out of it with us only having to do dinner once and that is on the 3rd last night of the trip with a few breakfasts and a few lunches.  Cathy was happy to go into the market for our team to get eggs and I stayed on in the truck, as it is my job for truck security, so a few of us stayed on board while the others ran around to get the supplies.  I felt bad for the stall ladies as they were getting a little fumigated from the Madge fumes, and Zoe would normally turn off the truck, but after just getting her started, there was no way we could turn the truck off now, which they did say something to us, but in French, we didn’t know and after one lady going off her nut at us, they all settled down and we waited and waited and the quick turnaround we were supposed to happen took us 40 minutes.  It seemed the bread was the hardest thing to find, which is funny as we saw 2 lots of ‘bread men’ with dozens of bread on a tray on their head walk past us as we waited. 

We had to drive a little further up once we had everyone on board again, we pissed off a few more locals that weren’t happy that Madge was parked in front of their shops, as Sam slipped out to get the bread that we finally spotted on our way out of town and then we were finally out of Labe at 1.30pm, 4 hours later than planned and we will see over the next few days the knock-on effect of how that will affect us.  But there is nothing we can do about it, so it is time to just get on with the next 3 days on the truck and the next 2 nights of bush camps, as I am starting now to countdown my days left on the trip which I think is a natural reaction when the trip has been as hard as it has been.  I am looking forward to getting home; catching up with Nairobi, especially after what the city has gone through the last few months while I have been away and then I get to blend in with other white people for a glorious 5 weeks before settling back into Africa for my second year with some big changes to come.  After only 15 minutes we stopped for a lunch break.  The day just keeps ticking by, but we need to be fed and if we are quick we can turn a lunch around for 14 people in 30-40 minutes, not bad really.  The good thing with the new group, even though we all have allocated jobs, everyone is happy to pitch in where they can and things move along so much quicker with this philosophy and it is also good for the group morale.  When the guys bought eggs at the market, I had noticed that they were a little warm and I said that I think that they had bought pre-boiled eggs.  Ian showed us a trick to be able to tell without cracking the egg open and it was if you spin the egg and it actually spins it means it is boiled, if it doesn’t then it is raw.  So we spun the egg and it twirled nicely, so we had just purchased 28 boiled eggs.  We had a brain wave that we could use them to make egg and lettuce rolls for lunch, which would make a nice change from tinned meat and tuna (which I am still not sick of) and then they were sent back out with Zoe to get some raw eggs that we could use for breakfast over the next 2 days.  So after what must have been nearly a world record lunch we were FINALLY back on the road now to get some distance over the country.  Some people mentioned that since it was getting so late now, to stay in Labe another night and to head out early in the morning, and at the start of my trip I would have thought the same thing, but the more distance we can get out, even if it is only 4 hours, could make a BIG difference to the other end of the travel days and there is also a cost factor, as another night in a hotel with meals vs. bush camping and a meal off the truck, it made sense to push as far as we could this afternoon. 

Just to slow things down when we were biting at the bit was road works.  There were a lot of diversions down temporary muddy roads while they completed near finished new roads.  It was very teasing to have to turn off a pot holed road, down a muddy track and pass what looked like a completed road to me.  It wasn’t just a section, it would have been a good 2 hours of driving that was currently being worked on and from the signs and a few of the people we saw, was being funded by the Chinese.  It will be a whole new section of road when they finish, and I wonder when that will be and how long it has taken to get some of the sections to where they are at now?  It is a slow process at the best of times, but in an African country where there is a lot more manual labor, these things can take longer and with the wet season just about finished it must get more productive?  There was a lot of mud, mud pools and at one point we showed up just as one of the road work trucks was pulling out one of their others out of a massive pool of muddy track.  We slipped and sloshed our way through with no problems but it was reassuring to know that if we needed help, there were enough trucks going in both directions to help if we needed.  Just after 5pm, we left the plains and flatness and headed into what seemed to be a mountain road that didn’t end.  There was no land on either side of the road that was suitable for us to camp, so we just had to keep driving until we found a small rocky outcrop where we could get Madge off the road and enough room for the 6 tents.  It wasn’t the best spot, based on the rock, as it was hard to peg out the tents and it was going to be hard to sleep on but it is overlanding and bush camping at its best.  You always wonder what is just down the road though and when you leave the bush camp the following morning, you always check for the next 30 minutes to see if there was anything more suitable, but when do you stop in the evening? 

It was 6.30pm when we found the spot and 30 minutes later we had the camp up, the tents erected and the cook team on dinner, who happened to be Team Ollie Rogers, which is cool with reference to Ollie and Roger but no Suzanne.  These guys were organized and had bought some white beans at the market this morning and then had them soaking in water, in a container, in the esky (to avoid spills) for the whole afternoon. I just had to remind Suzanne to rinse the beans as they had found little insects and bugs on the beans as they popped them in to the water a few hours ago, but we figured a bit of protein never hurt anyone and didn’t mention to people that they had been ‘bugged’ and we also figured that they were still to be cooked, so no fear of eating a raw bug.  With the dinner, bean based and some tinned vegetables it had been a totally MFD (meat free day) with both meals being vegetarian and Ready Steady Cock would NEVER have no meat!  WTH (what the hell).  But the meal was delicious when we were finally fed at 8.30pm and a lot of beers were consumed during the waiting and when I peeled off to bed at 10pm; they were still rocking on, but with no more beers as they didn’t want to exhaust the stock with another bush camp tomorrow.  I am loving the cook group roster as it is giving me so much more extra time for me to sit on the truck and work on the blog and to just chill.  You dint really have that option when you are in a smaller group and after 7 weeks it is taking some getting used to.  The downside of tonight’s truck time and my computer is that the back of the truck smells to high heaven as everyone’s shoes got so drenched yesterday, that they now need to dry them out, so picture 9 pairs of sneakers, which I am sure were a little pongy to start with, now wet and pongy, times that by 9, it really is an awful smell.  Add to that, I was sitting under the girls washing that included some ‘smalls’, people shirts and some pairs of shorts around, I felt like I was in a Chinese laundry!!!!    


Considering we had really only travelled 4 hours, we got 80km under our belts today and we all have high hopes that we will get some good distance tomorrow (but not confident) and then be rewarded of arriving into a new country and a hotel for a good wash and some R&R.  I don’t know how the guys are coping actually after a full on 2 days hiking, and yesterday being a long and tough day, how they were able to keep going today, but kudos to them all.               


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