Thursday, November 21, 2013

I’M COMING HOME NAIROBI

I’m heading home today and it feels great.  I have 6 days when I am back in Nairobi and I have friends to try and catch up with, a visa to process and obtain (fingers crossed) and generally just check on my house, the babies and be in one place for longer than 3 nights.  To say I am excited is a tad under rated.  I jumped onto the Kenya Airways website this morning and saw that my flight was departing 40 minutes later.  I had booked the guy that Ellie and Rich had used yesterday and luckily he gave me his card, so I was able to get reception to phone him and change my pick up time to 1pm and I also got him to check the price as I was quoted 12,000 and it seems it should only cost around 5,000.  I was happy with the revised cost of 7,000CFA (14AUD) and the new pickup time, as my flight wasn’t until 5pm.    With Ellie and Rich gone, I had no breakfast buddies this morning so I decided to just get downstairs at 8.45am to say our final goodbye to Zoe before the new group were due to leave at 9am.  Zoe was running around like a crazy woman, packing food, checking the truck and doing ‘stuff’ as the new kids all arrived and loaded their bags in reception.  The ‘oldies’ were all seated and standing near the bar doors and I think about it now and maybe we looked a little intimidating as people waited around and I do have to say I was being a little over observant of the new passengers.  There seemed to be an older crowd on this trip, like over 65-70 age bracket and even though there are only 6 more people on this trip that what we had coming in, it looks so much more bigger and I am SO SO SO glad that I booked the September departure rather than this one.  I can’t imagine 18 people on the truck (20 including Sam and Zoe), cooking for 20 people, border crossings for 20 people, toilet stops with 20 people and I think you get more ‘clicky’ groups on larger groups as well.  Yes siree, I am SO SO SO glad I am not on this departure.  Luggage wise they all looked okay, but there was one couple that had their 2 bags and then a third larger bag, maybe their camping stuff was in it, but it didn’t look like a camping bag…. At least I didn’t obtain my third bag until the end of the first 3 week section.  It would be interesting to see how over 20 bags get into the back locker!!!  At least there also seemed to be a few strong men on the trip, so that is always a plus with the bags and the stove and I am assuming with the tents as they will have to be on the roof.  F#@k that…………  All the bags fit into the back locker, all the newbies fit onto the truck (albeit they looked like sardines) and with Zoe giving the quick going over of Madge, they drove off at 9.10am with a row of beer cans dangling across the back of the truck from the crazy kids last night drunken antics!!!!  I wonder how long they will last strung there……

I was in luck and Cathy, Sian, Karl, Ian and Suzanne hadn’t had breakfast yet, after we all did some small house keeping so we walked to a place where Ian and Suzanne had eaten breakfast yesterday.  It was a very western place and had just about everything you could dream of on the menu.  I figured that I would most likely not get any food at the airport and I wouldn’t be fed on the plane until at least 6pm, at 9.45am in the morning I ordered a Royal Burger and a coke for my ‘brunch’ to get me through until dinner and it came with a side of the best wedges I have eaten in a long time!  It’s always midday in the world for an alcoholic drink and I figured the same rule applies for burgers and coke as well.  It was delicious and after settling the bill I walked back to the hotel with Karl as the other went off to spend their last hours seeing more of the city, so my goodbyes were said to Ian and Suzanne and the girls said that they would see me off at 1pm.  It was a Sunday today and the city was like a ghost town, hardly any traffic, 99% of the shops were closed, which was a blessing as I went straight back to my room to pack what seemed like a lot of things to fit into 2 bags.  It took me one hour and 45 minutes, and both of my bags were at bursting point.  I wasn’t worried about my backpack, as it has been this chocked before, but the cheap 2 buck bag (the stripy ones) was at maximum and I was just hoping that there is a plastic wrap service at the airport as I know for a fact the bag would not survive intact unless it was wrapped.  I had 20 minutes to shower, Helen knocked on the door to say goodbye and when I stumbled out of the lift at 1pm Cathy and Sian were there with tears in their eyes (well pretending anyway) as they helped me with my 2 checked bags, I had my day backpack and my handbag.  I may have arrived in Ghana and started my trip with 17kg but I am pretty sure I have over 40kg for my return and all of that is the material that I have bought, oh and maybe the 8 masks and a few other ‘things’.  While I was on the Kenyan Airways web site reconfirming my flights I also reconfirmed my baggage allowance and it was still 2 pieces so I had nothing to worry about.  I settled my bill and with a number swap and a final wave to the girls I was in the cab ready to leave.

As the price had changed with the guy from yesterday I wanted to reconfirm the price before we drove off, so with his broken English and my nonexistent French we agreed on the 7,000CFA but then he was trying to charge an additional 3000CFA for my bags in the boot, which he did not help carry or pack.  I said no, I wasn’t paying that and he reiterated the price and I said no and got to get out of the car and I would get another taxi.  He stopped me as I got out and agreed and when they do agree you have to ask on what price, as it is a catch that they try and get you on.  So after a rocky start and the final agreement on 7000CFA we were on the road to the airport.  There was hardly any traffic on the roads and with a broken conversation of taxi man asking if I liked Senegal and I lied and said yes, I was at the airport at 1.35pm.  When we pulled up there were a lot of men standing around which was a little daunting along with some baggage cart people and I hate when you get out of a car they all stare, but I walked with confidence to get a trolley from the ramp (they are free) and walked back and loaded the bags and I paid my taxi guy and gave him an extra 500CFA to say thanks and I am glad he didn’t try and hit me up for more money after we had arrived, he may have been scared of my angry face back at the hotel.  I just hate getting ripped off and when I knew I was already paying 2000 more than the normal price, to hit me up again was a little rich in my books.  At least he was smart enough to not push me.

I was directed to the side of the building where the entrance was located and after passing some security at the sliding doors that didn’t look twice at ID or my bags I was in the main hall and immediately a guy came over to me asking if I wanted my bags wrapped, well actually I do.  So he took the trolley and we walked to the plastic wrap section and I told him I just needed the one bag done as he pulled off my backpack, I was about to tell him that I didn’t need that one wrapped when I saw he was just weighing the bags for me so I could see how heavy they were.  My backpack was 20.5kg and the souvenir bag was 23.5kg.  He said I was 4 kg over, but knowing I was on a piece system I knew I could get around the weight and if I had to pay 4kg, then so be it.  So I was wrapped, packed and after I paid the 1500CFA (3AUD) I then made my way to the TV screen to see what counters where I could check-in.  I could see my flight, but no counter number and my bag guy came over and asked who I was flying and said that the counters wouldn’t open for another 20 minutes (3 hours prior) until 2pm and it was counters 26-29.  So I took a seat and 10 minutes later he came over and handed me the departure card that had to be filled in.  He was so helpful that I dished out the rest of my remaining coins that I had in my purse and as he walked past again with another trolley I tipped him for all the help that he had given me.  I observed the airport as it started to get busy and I tell you the plastic wrap business was in a flurry of activity.  I think if you had a plastic wrap business anywhere in Africa it would be a money maker with everyone so paranoid that things get stolen out of people’s bags.  They were wrapping like the elves at Santa’s house Christmas Eve!!!!!      

The counter for my flight opened at 2.15pm and my ticket was checked by a staff member to get through to a small mobile counter where my passport and ticket were checked and written on a form and then I was at the ticket counter.  I got a cow of a check-in chick, she didn’t smile, she slapped my passport on the counter and when I popped my first bag on the scales she told me to take a step back, nastily, and I knew that I was going to have a problem with weight on the bags.  The first bag moved on the belt and the second I put on the second bag she said immediately that I have excess baggage.  At this point I just thought that the second bag was over in weight, but then she said it was 17kg over.  I then realized she was assuming that I was only allowed one piece at 30kg, so I knew I was going to be okay on weight as I knew what the bags were; it was the 2 pieces that was the issue.  So I pointed to my ticket, where it clearly states 2 pieces and she checked with a colleague, told me again that I had excess to which I said I was not going to pay because I was allowed to have 2 pieces.  A supervisor was called over and I thought now here comes some-one who will see sense and after looking at the screen and speaking French she also reiterated that I had to pay excess baggage.  I said my ticket says I can have 2 pieces and I was told that that particular rule does not apply in Senegal.  Well listen here sister, my ticket says 2 pieces and I will check in 2 pieces without paying.  I explained I have already travelled on the ticket from London to Nairobi and Nairobi to Ghana and I had no issues with 2 pieces and I asked to see a higher superior as I was NOT going to pay a cent.  She said that was fine and after some more chit chat with the check-in lady, 5 minutes later I was given my boarding pass and 2 baggage tags, with no explanation, no ‘have a good flight’ and I just hoped that both of my bags make it to Nairobi.  I did have the 2 baggage tags and I can only put the incident down to them trying to get some money out of me.  Well they barked up the wrong tree there with taxi man warming me up this morning and I was NOT going to pay for 17kg of excess baggage when I was entitled to 2 pieces. 

I had just left the counter when Suzanne and Ian arrived and 10 minutes later so did Karl and Lord Byron.  It was a little funny that I had left so early to only have to wait and I just checked in the same time as they arrived.  I really could have got a lift with one of them.  Thankfully the taxi was only 14AUD, if it had of been more then I probably would have tried to organize it all a little better.  I was glad to have some company after the confrontation with the check-in staff and they could see that I knew people and that just made me feel better for some reason even though the 4 of them were all flying Emirates and not Kenyan.  We asked the information desk if there was a money changer after immigration and was told no, so with a little bit of money left over and not knowing if it was worth anything when I left Senegal, I decided to just change it all now and if I needed cash at the shops then I would use USD and I had some Patrick EUR also left.  The check-in counters for the other guys was not due to open for another hour, so I told them that I would see them on the other side and I proceeded my way through immigration, which only had 3 people in line, and security and then I was air side.  Dakar’s international airport is called Léopold Sédar Senghor International Airport (what a mouthful) and has quite a few duty free shops, the old fashioned kind selling souvenirs and a few that sold perfume and alcohol.  I was able to buy a few more small gifts for the house mothers, I got my hat pin, a sticker, a magnet and a necklace that seemed quite cheap and it all came to 10EUR which I was able to pay with a 20 note and given change.  I found this small shop tucked away at the back that wasn’t staffed and the guy in the next shop called the lady and she came back with food on a plate and I asked her how much the children’s dresses were as they were made out of the beautiful West African material.  She told me 11,000 (22AUD) which I was happy to pay, even though a little risky as the girls are getting older now and I don’t want to be the Godmother that starts buying clothes that they don’t like.  But I thought they were cool and the styles were what they wear so I was going to take the plunge.  I also found a beautiful leather jewelry box and when I finished looking, I had to go to another shop to use their EFTpos and when I reconfirmed the cost before I left, the dresses jumped up to 18,000 each (36AUD) and on the chance that the girls would not like them for a 40AUD dress each, I put them back reluctantly and just got the jewelry box.  I want to get my Christmas presents from Kenya this year and have a few ideas in mind, so I will get cracking on my Christmas shopping during the week with a visit to the Masai market on Friday.  I wonder if my Masai friends that I made at the start of the year are still around. 

So after my shop fest I found a seat and found a free Wi-Fi connection and had been on it for long enough to check-on and Suzanne and Ian found me and Karl and Lord Byron not far behind.  We had a great view of my plane and the African Renaissance Monument behind it.  It is a 49m tall bronze statue located on top of one of the twin hills known as Collines des Mamelles, outside of Dakar and built overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.  The site preparation on top of the 100-meter high hill began in 2006, and construction of the bronze statue began 3 April 2008.  Originally scheduled for completion in December 2009, delays stretched into early 2010, and the formal dedication occurred on 4 April 2010, Senegal's "National Day", commemorating the 50th anniversary of the country's independence from France.  It is the tallest statue in Africa and it looked massive from where I was sitting.  So we sat and chatted until my flight was finally called at 4.30pm and with hugs again from everyone and promises to keep in touch I joined the end of the queue to be processed onto the waiting bus.  I was actually scanned by sour check-in lady which didn’t faze me when I took one last look over my shoulder, it was really sweet to see my friends smiling and waving back as I stepped onto the bus.  I can’t remember the last time I had some-one say goodbye to me at a gate.  Has it ever happened?  I’m going to miss those guys.  So we waited for the bus to fill and then we were driven the 500m to the plane.  There must have been someone important arriving or departing as there was a lot of security, they looked like Army, with weapons drawn and placed every 100m around the run way.  It is always a little daunting when you see security that tight and hope that it was for some-one important and not just the normal security detail of the airport as that would be alarming if that was the case!!!!!It was a front and rear load and where the bus had pulled up I was at the front stairs and with my seat number being 20, I didn’t think it would matter what stairs I boarded on.  Well we were all told to make a single line before a single person could get a foot on a step and when it came to me I was told I had to use the back stairs….. really…….  But looking over my shoulder it seemed only the business class people were getting on via the front stairs.  Well I guess that is okay.  I had my wonderful window and because the camera I normally use when I fly was stolen out of my bag in Freetown I had a brain wave and pulled out my Bloggie, which is primarily used for videoing, it also has a photo option and made a perfect stand-in without me having to bring out my big camera to snap my window and flying shots.  We were flying on a 737-700 with a 3x3 configuration and there were no in-seat TV’s, which being a night flight I was okay with that and even happier when they closed the doors and it was not a full flight and we had a middle seat spare!  It was a tentative happiness as the flight travels via Bamako in Mali and we could in fact pick up more people and have a full flight from there, which would be unlucky as the flight from Bamako to Nairobi was the longest section of the flights.

We departed on time and had a grand view of the city and the bay where it is located before heading into the clouds for the 1 hour and 30 minute flight.  We were served a hot meal (which they called a snack); a drink and I watched the last few episodes of Candid Camera on the overhead TV screens before we started our decent into Mali.  As the stop was to only take 40 minutes, the people who were continuing onto Nairobi were asked to stay on the flight for the stop.  I like this idea and when we had landed more than half of the plane got off, so I was hoping that we wouldn’t be picking up too many new people and I could still have the spare seat for the remaining 6.5 hours of fly time.  The stop took longer and after 55 minutes and the doors had closed I had the whole row to myself and at 7.55pm we were back in the air for the final push home.  It was dark by the time we were back in the air and after dinner service, with another hot meal was served and drinks given freely, the lights went off and the plane went to bed.  I pulled out my laptop and pumped out some more blog to try and make up some days when I saw some flashes out of the corner of my eye.  Normally I would think it was just the plane’s wings lights flashing at night, but I kept seeing them out of the corner of my eye, so I shut down my laptop and I then saw a lightning storm flicking like a light that would have been 1km away.  Every 3 seconds some bolts would flash from the dark clouds and it was quite spectacular to watch until we passed the storm and I couldn’t see it any more.  I have never seen anything like it in all my travel experience and it was quite a show!

I was hoping that we would come into Nairobi as the sun rose over Mt Kenya, which I have seen on previous morning arrivals, but we were a little early for that and we were tyres down at 5.30am, exactly on time.  There was a bus waiting to take us to the arrivals hall, which I have not seen the new area since the fire ripped through the old arrivals terminal in July this year. What they have done is used what was a car park and turned the ground floor into the new arrivals hall.  It is all painted, fresh signs, new toilets and a well-organized and maintained arrival machine!  It certainly surpassed the old arrivals hall and this is a perfect example that something good did come out of what was a terrible accident.  I had been given the arrival card and visa application on the flight so I could bypass the counters of where there were people furiously filling in forms and I breezed through, paid my 40EUR for my 90 day tourist visa for what I hoped was the last time and I was straight out into the new spanking new baggage collection area where there were new trollies waiting with new TV’s telling you what carousel to wait at. I was to head to carousel 3 and I waited and waited, some people that weren’t on my flight turned up, but there were 3 flight numbers on my belt, so I didn’t think my of it and then the Kenyan Rugby team turned up which kept me occupied for a while and then I saw my bag circling around on carousel 1……..  and there weren’t many bags left, so it had more than likely been circling for a while and I am happy to report that BOTH bags made it!!!  So with my trolley packed I followed the signs to the exit, got pulled up my customs asking what I had in my bags and I replied clothes, knowing if they opened the bags and all the material bulged out I may have been up for some duty, but after a quick talk with a colleague I was s=waved through and into the throng of people all holding signs with names.  I was about to pull out my phone to call Steve when I saw him waving with his contagious smile and I knew that I was home.

I AM BACK NAIROBI-AND IT FEELS GREAT TO BE HOME.          



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