Wednesday, November 20, 2013

70 DAYS-9 COUNTRIES-12 BORDERS-328 HOURS ON MADGE

A man travels the world over in search of what he needs and returns home to find it.” 
-George Augustus Moore-


Okay, today is now officially the last day of the trip. 
It is hard to believe that this day has finally arrived when I started this journey 69 days ago, TEN WEEKS ago, in Accra, Ghana.  I try and think what my expectations were of the trip and were they met and I think that they were.  Are there things that can be improved on the trip?  Definitely.  Am I glad I did the trip?  Definitely.  Would I recommend the trip to someone else and the answer would be yes, but be prepared for some tough times, change of plans, long truck days, bad roads, tinned meat, mosquito’s, tuna rolls and an experience of a life time that you would get nowhere else on this planet.

My Facebook status this morning: 

“IT'S THE LAST DAY! After 9 countries, 12 borders, 310 hours in the truck, over 4000km travelled, 19 amazing and incredible friends, 10,000 waves issued with love, too many chicken and chip dinners, 53 tins of tuna, not wanting to know how many cans of spam and as always a renewed appreciation for the life I am so lucky to live. West Africa is so different from its Eastern counterparts, it has a beat and a culture so unique, the people so resilient it is something I will never forget. I've had the time of my life warts and all and have a feeling I will return one day. Thanks to all of you who made this trip what it was... INCREDIBLE xx”.

So I have been working on the ‘stats’ of the trip the last week and below is a summary of what the trip consisted of on a 10 WEEK African overlanding experience, and WEST AFRICA at that.  None of this easy peasy East Africa business.

70 days
10 weeks
9 countries
12 borders
4500km travelled
328.5 hours sitting on Madge (the truck)-92.5 hours section 1-140 hours section 2-96 hours section 3
23 AMAZING PEOPLE
15 chickens (minimum)
53 tins of tuna
35 tins of SPAM
14,000 waves to complete strangers
23 pieces of West African material
7 camping nights
9 bush camps
38 hotel/guest houses
15 ‘other’ accommodation eg: dorm, bad hut upgrades
13 full pages taken up in my passport
4949 photos
70 quotes for my blog from the roof of Madge
And my love for Africa strengthened.

As you can see I am a bit of a stat gal and the above stats are a little eye opening to say the least.  Probably the time in the truck is the biggest stat that stands out for me 328 hours, which converted is 13.66 days, full days in the truck, which is nearly 2 weeks, sitting on Madge.  It sounds a lot when you put it like that.  I was probably also surprised on the lack of fresh food, as it was actually quite hard to find fresh food in some of the smaller towns-but all in all I’ve had the time of my life. 

So the day started with breakfast at 8am and a departure set for 9am.  Ellie and I wanted to make a stop at the post office which was located across the road from the hotel.  We walked in after breakfast and there were a few people sitting in chairs waiting for …something, so we asked the Western Union guy behind the counter where we could get stamps and he nodded that he could help.  So Ellie launched into some of her French and after she got about 6 words out when the guy asked if we spoke English and we said yes and he said that would be best!!!  Poor Ellie and all I can say is she knows more French than me.  We waited about 10 minutes for the stamps to appear and we paid 500CFA per stamp, I was getting mine for my Globetrotters book and Ellie was going to tempt fate and send some cards from Senegal.  All through West Africa there has not been a lot of post offices and LP has always warned that the mail system is pretty nonexistent and if it is then it is very unreliable, but I think if mail was going to get out, it would be from here.   I got to the truck a little early as I had to gather all my gear that always seems to spread itself from one end of the truck to the other.  I found some lollipops, some Tang and a bag of material that I had forgotten about and the rest of my crap, which I collected and condensed into 3 bags. 

Well Madge had something to say about our departure time when we were just about locked and loaded to leave and Zoe went to start the truck they noticed that a cable had been severed from something and it needed to be grafted and fixed back to something.  As you can see I didn’t get into the technicality of the problem, but what it meant to us was that we had some extra time in Saint Louis while Zoe and Sam were on the fix, but it is pretty funny that Madge got the final say for the start of the last day!!!!!  Some people went to sit on the bar terrace to use the internet, some stayed on the truck and used the tables to write up postcards and update journals and I decided to go back into the hotel and take some photos, especially of the photos of the pilots and the hotel from back in the 1900’s.  There was so much history staring back at us from the walls and I took some photos of the photos.  I do like looking at old photos, they are a part of history, something that has been snapped in time and really they are worth their weight in gold.  I was lucky enough to get some photos of my Nan the last time I was back in Australia in her heyday, her deb ball picture, her and granddad on their honeymoon, my mum when she was a baby and they are priceless actually and I will treasure them for all of time.         
 
It was a quick fix and we were finally on the road at 10am.  I got my second favorite seat of the truck for my last day and was the left hand seat at the tables.  I love it there because you get the full force of the wind and the full sun when it is on that side of the truck and I had just fluked it this morning that I had chosen the sunny side, so I got one last day to work on my tan as well.  I was going to sit where I had sat on my first day 10 weeks ago, but it was on the shady side of the truck and I liked the seat I had a lot better as well, but it would have been pretty cool to start and finish in the same seat.  The temperature is so much cooler here than what we have experienced the last week and I guess being on the coast one would expect that.  We had a game plan of making a small detour on our way to Dakar via some sand dunes that were recommended in LP (Lonely Planet).  We reached the turn off for the dunes at 11.50am and we drive and drove and drove and we saw some partial dunes that had vegetation and tress growing on them and then we reached the ocean….  We either missed them or they were the dunes that LP had been talking about.  It certainly wasn’t impressive at all and if you asked me wasted an hour of our time on the search for these dunes that were not impressive in the least.  The upside was we found some shade and stopped for lunch on the way back to the turn off to continue our journey to Dakar.  To think that this was the last lunch.  The last time we would eat happy cow cheese, tinned beef, tuna and onion and baguettes and it was a little sad.  Some people said they couldn’t even stomach the tinned meat anymore and they had only been eating it for 3 or 7 weeks, try 10 weeks and to be honest I wasn’t that sick of the meat, but I wouldn’t be rushing out to buy a tin when I get home.  I would like to make Ellie’s Spam mash with baked beans, but I think I will leave that cooking experience until my return back to Nairobi in January!  I got my last photos with Madge because the next time we stop will be in Dakar later this afternoon!  Imagine.  I know I keep harping on about the last of this, the last of that-but until you spend 70 days traversing the West African continent and realize the blood, sweat and tuna that went into finishing a trip like this, you would then understand what a great accomplishment it feels.  With one last bush pee we were back on the road at 1.15pm for the final push to the city. 

Sam had prepared a quiz over the last week, so to help kill some travel time; we played the quiz while we drove into Dakar.  It was 5 rounds of 10 questions and we were going to partner up with the people we were sitting with.  I had Ollie with me, which I was happy with as I was hoping he would be a bit of a brainiac and that we would score okay.  As it worked out we didn’t have to worry too much as Cathy and Sian ran away with the wooden spoon and no-one came close to Ellie and Rich who got 42 out of 60.  Ollie and I came in equal second with Lord Byron and Helen.  It was a great way to kill some time and we finally hit the main freeway into Dakar at 4pm.  Madge was able to let loose, cast off her cobwebs and we sprinted to the finish line.  The city of Dakar was what you would expect of an African capital city.  It was busy, it was a little chaotic and it was a Friday and traffic was heavy.  After only asking for one direction we found the street our hotel was on but the traffic policeman would not let us turn down it and told us we had to go around the block and head in the other way, which made me believe that it was a one way street.  Well it sound easier than it actually was when Zoe tried to turn a left into an intersection that apparently we were not allowed to do a left turn and had about 20 people telling us this fact as Zoe held up traffic waiting for the traffic cop to say yay or nay.  It was a nay and we had to do another block, down a skinny side street to get back to the same intersection, but from the other way and we were then permitted to turn right, and then finally left into our street that we drive past 25 minutes ago.  In hindsight it was the best plan, as we were comfortably parked in the right direction, on the right side of the hotel which could not have been done had we entered the other way.    

So for the LAST TIME Madge was switched off and it was official, my trip had come to an end. 
70 DAYS ON A TRUCK-and we survived.
LP (Lonely Planet) had given our hotel a great wrap and we were not disappointed when we were given our room keys and with a plan to meet up at 7pm for dinner.  I had to do 2 trips with all my 7 bags of stuff with Lord Byron helping with my last bag, which happened to be the souvenir bag that also contained all the material that I had been buying the last 7 weeks.  I will have to do a stock-take of everything that I have bought during the trip as I get it all packed for airline travel in 2 days’ time.  Well once I was in my air-conditioned palace, and I was lucky I got a single share for the night, there was no time like the present and I got everything out of the ‘shopping’ bag and I was able to spread all the crap I had bought out and reassess and remind myself what I had actually bought.  I counted all the material I had bought, including the skirts and dresses I had made in Ghana and I have 23 pieces of fabric, some of it is 4m long some of it is 6m long so to average it out 5mx23 makes a whopping 115 meters of material I had!  Man that sounds like a lot and I think I remember the Ghana guy telling me he used 4m to make my dress, so I could literally get 28 dresses made!  Holy smokes!!!!  I rekon I could get some pillows thrown in there as well and still have some left over material.  I may, just may, have gone a little crazy on buying the stuff, but there are some beautiful fabric this side of the continent and I couldn’t stop!!!  By the time I had finished doing my stock take, I had 20 minutes to show and change and be downstairs at 7pm. 

The return trip heading the 10 weeks back to Ghana leaves on Sunday, today was Friday-Sam and Zoe get only one day to complete out trip and start the next trip which I think is a little crazy for them to not even get a day off as they have the welcome meeting for the newbies tomorrow morning and with a FULL HOUSE (18 people) there is going to be a hell of a lot more work on the return leg.  So at 7pm, Zoe and Sam were room juggling, trying to keep us in the same rooms for tomorrow night, post tour, accommodate all the newbies and work on the rooming configurations which seemed to be a problem as Zoe tried to get it all fixed.  She was now the tour leader for the trip back with Sam as the co-driver and I think that is a great idea to shake things up for them to keep them on their toes.  I do have to mention that Sam completed his last tour as a leader with us today.  He has been given a promotion in the form of an office job with Dragoman back in the UK, and after 4 years that is a pretty big accomplishment and I wish him the best of luck in his new role.  He is with Zoe for the next 3 weeks before the trainee joins Zoe in Freetown for the remaining 7 weeks back to Ghana. 

Things were wrapped up just before 7.30pm and the hotel has a sister property just a 5 minute walk away and also a hotel across the road from that.  So with Lebanese on the menu tonight, just our group headed out for our last meal as a group.  The start of each of the tours, our final dinners have included the new people, but with 12 of us and 18 of the newbies, I am glad that we decided to keep it just us tonight, firstly so that we had just us and secondly can you imagine waiting for 30 people to be fed in West Africa?!  There were times when it was a stretch for the 5 of us, let alone 30.  Sam checked to make sure that the restaurant had room for us and when we were shown in it was like we had stepped into a restaurant in London.  I had to ask Cathy what country we were in.  There were fairy lights strung around the place, first class table and chairs, an air-conditioned section or an outdoor eating section and it just oozed 5 star.  Now THAT is a way to end an overlanding trip!  So we were seated and offered menus that had everything in French, but with the help of Rich and Sian I worked out what I was having, which mirrored Sian’s choices and with a Blue Lagoon cocktail on the way, we were sitting in paradise.  Some of the gang had to go and use the ATM, so with Sam 6 of them ventured to the machine and 20 minutes later they all returned with a story that they had all been tried to be pickpocketed by a gang of youths.  They weren’t violent, but they grabbed bags, did a pass on some pockets and they had to all stay close and venture for safety.  The LP mentioned it was not safe to walk around at night time, but they always say that, but tonight was a re-affirmation that they were not safe and that was a group together, imagine if you had of been on your own!

The meal was 5 stars, the company was 5 stars and the thank-you speech from Clem was also 5 stars.  You could not have asked for a more perfect night to end on.  I also got my tip to Zoe and Sam I would do tomorrow before things get to hectic for them before their departure on Sunday.  I have always been a lone tipper, not wanting to contribute to a group envelope, as I always include a personal message and an Australian hat pin for most people and I am proud as to what I tip and I sometimes think people who want to do a group contribution generally don’t tip the ‘going’ rate and want to lob it all in with everyone else’s money.  We had also been given feedback forms which I do intent to fill in, but I will try and follow up with a letter back to Dragoman with some constructive criticism on the trip.  I tend to say I will do things like that and before I know it time ticks by and then I don’t get around to doing it, but I am going to try as I think they definitely need the feedback for a tour where they have not been to some of the countries before and some information to help the next ones be better for them and also the clients. 

So a MASSIVE shout out to my group 3 of the trip.  You guys rocked.  We had an INCREDIBLE, diverse bunch of people and you really all did make the trip what it was ‘a trip of a lifetime’.  In no particular order:
Rishard and Ellie-UK
Ian and Suzanne-Ozwi’s
Cathy and Sian-Australia
Clem-UK
Lord Byron-Australia
Karl-Australia
Helen-UK
Ollie-UK
And finally Zoe and Sam-the rocks, the glue, the motivation and the driving force, literally, of the trip and for putting up with me for 10 whole weeks, or should I put that around the other way?

THANKS A MILLION TO EVERYONE who was a part of my 10 week journey:
Bean-UK
Harj-UK
Patrick-Australia
Ducky-USA/Australia
Eva-Australia
Patty-USA      
     
And to finish with one of my favorite quotes from the roof of Madge that Sam went to a great deal of trouble to sticky tape them all:

“Travelling is a brutality. 
It forces you to trust strangers and to lose sight of all that familiar comfort of home and friends.
You are constantly off balance.  Nothing is yours except the essential things-air, sleep, dreams, the sea, the sky-all things tending towards the eternal or what we imagine of it.”
-Cesare Parese-

THANKS AGAIN and the best thing of travelling is meeting and making new friends and knowing that you will see some of them again.  That is the beauty of travel.



1 comment:

  1. Nice one, Bernie! Hope you're having a great time back home in Kenya. X

    ReplyDelete