Friday, October 25, 2013

SIERRA LEONE IS REALLY SURPRISING ME

Every perfect traveler always creates the country where he travels.
-Nikos Kazantzaki-

As most bush camps go I slept well.  I was woken by munching cows just after midnight, and they were close to the tent, like that close I could literally hear them pull the grass out of the soggy ground and their breathing as they chewed.  I wasn’t scared as such, but I was worried about them chewing my thongs that I had left outside my tent last night.  I was tempted to unzip my tent and pull them in, but then I didn’t want to freak out the cows and they turn from nice, but noisy munchers, into stampeding, terrified, cow killers, so I just hoped for the best and also prayed that if they were that close, that they wouldn’t trip over my tent pegs and actually fall on me-now that would be a disaster, a good blog entry, but a disaster all the same.  I awoke again with the belting rain on the tent and again I thought about getting up and closing my tent flaps, but I didn’t think any water was coming in, so I was happy to let the cool breeze through and then the nice, noisy, killer cows returned at 2am, passing back past the tents a little close for comfort for me, but they did no harm and I am happy to report my thongs were still there this morning. 

We only had 20km to travel today, even if the roads deteriorated even further due to all the rain we had last night, we would still make it to Kabala today.  We were officially a bush camp short now off the itinerary, and even though I do enjoy the camping, for some reason I always think it is a hassle until everything is unpacked and the tents are up.  It is a bit silly really, as the tents don’t take long, even with me being an ‘expert’ now and getting mine up on my own in record time, it doesn’t worry me not having a toilet anymore, as long as I am in a secluded enough spot, I am happy to take a bush wee and god forbid a bush number 2 when I have to, but it is just the hassle that I have created in my mind, and really at the end of the day, if you can have a bed, a toilet to sit on (even if it doesn’t flush) and a roof over your head, wouldn’t you also want to have that over a bush camp?  Yeah I thought so.    

As mentioned in my previous blog, I was not sure what I expected of Sierra Leone, but I may have had a perceived idea in my head that it was going to be a hostile place after its recent civil war, and too be honest I think I may have been a little brain washed by people.  When I told people where I was going there were a lot of worried expressions, some ‘good-lucks’ and it then filled me with apprehension.  So to enter the country yesterday and have all the locals happy to see us and not a single person was hostile, it just surprised me to say the least and I think that the country is going to surprise me further and I will hopefully prove that it has been tarred with a certain brush that I hope to help eliminate in the coming weeks.  The helpfulness and friendliness has been overwhelming.  Knowing little about the country as a whole, I took the time to read the Lonely Planet yesterday and it gave me more insight into the troubles that they have had and it with it being so recent, right up there with the Rwandan Genocide 10-15 years ago, it really makes you wonder as I look at people that are over the age of 23, what they saw during the civil war, were they the boy soldiers, what do they remember and how did they move on.  It was a brutal 10 years, and these people lived through it and if they didn’t experience it first hand, they for sure would have known people or had family members that were affected to some extent and I am looking at these young people and just wondering how they forget such atrocities.  I was 23 when all this was happening a world away from me in Australia-it makes the mind boggle for sure, and if given the opportunity I would love to speak to someone from that time and hear some personal stories of what they went through, but I think the likelihood of that is slim.   

After breakfast and packing everything away, including the pain in the arse awning, we set off and the roads didn’t get any worse and they didn’t get any better, so we knew we were going to make good time today to our destination.  We were stopped just before entering the town of Kabala for an ID checkpoint and Madge also got checked over by guys that are employed to make sure that the vehicles are safe enough to drive their roads.  We all had to get out at this check point as our visas were checked and also our stamps and then our passport details taken down and a form filled in for Madge.  It all took around 30 minutes and one of the officer guys asked what we were doing in Sierra Leone and we told him we were here for tourism and he replied ‘oh yes we had some tourist come through here in 1985’!!!!!  It was hilarious, especially since that was 28 years ago, but then you think why, and then the whole civil war rears its ugly head again and the instability of the country has never been that great anyway, well until recently now.  Lonely Planet rekons it is now one of the safest African countries to travel to these days, and that is good for a country that is still trying to find its feet. 

We had one more police check 15 minutes further down the road and again we were asked why we were here and when we replied tourism, he just shook his head in bewilderment and said welcome to my country.  They are really shocked that we are here for holidays.  Driving along yesterday and then this morning I have noticed a lot of Aid Agencies in the villages.  There are the big contributors like USAid, UN run projects and other projects that involved Canada, Germany and Ireland to name a few.  I think it is the first country where I have seen so much aid out of the last 5 countries anyway, and some parts of the country must be used to seeing some whitie’s as that would go hand in hand with the aid work, but to see whitie’s here for a holiday seems to be unusual.  But with that said, we have been made to feel welcome at every turn.  We arrived into Kabala officially 1.5 days earlier than expected at 11.30am and as we hadn’t booked anything, we used the LP (Lonely Planet) to find out where the best place in town was and once we were in the town, we paid a motor taxi to take us directly to the accommodation.  Sam and Zoe checked that they had rooms and they reported back that all was well and we would have power at 7pm, it was bucket showers, but large rooms.  We’ll take it. 

Kabala is the capital and largest city of Koinadugu District in the Northern Province of Sierra Leone. Kabala is one of the main towns in Northern Sierra Leone and is set in a rural landscape, surrounded by mountains. Kabala is an agricultural center and lies on the far north of Sierra Leone, with close proximity to Kono District and the international border with Guinea .  Kabala lies approximately 137 km north-east of Makeni, the largest city in the north, and approximately 320 km east of the capital Freetown.  The population of Kabala was 14,108 in the 2004 census, and a current estimate of 35,074.  Kabala is one of the most ethnically diverse cities in Sierra Leone, with no single ethnic group forming a majority.  Its inhabitant are largely from the Kuranko, Mandingo, Yalunka, Limba and Fula ethnic groups. The population of Kabala is largely Muslim. Kabala is one of the few major cities in Northern Sierra Leone with a very small minority Temne population, the largest ethnic group in Northern Sierra Leone.
Sierra Leone's president Ernest Bai Koroma celebrate 2012 New Year in Kabala.  President Koroma held a town hall meeting at the Yogomaia Field in Kabala and attended New Year church services at the Holy Martyrs Catholic Church in the town.

We had an hour to freshen up and chill out before we had a truck lunch in their breakfast room.  So we pulled off all the boxes we needed for lunch and the stove so that tea and coffee could be made and then it was instant, we all hit a brick wall and we were all just so lethargic and out of energy.  To compound it all, the heavens opened up again and the rain was torrential, like it was a sign telling us to stay in and read a book type of sign.  The couples were all going to go for a walk up the mountain that was located next to the hotel, but with me not being interested in that I was going to work on my blog.  As it turned out it was a great idea as Ian, Suzanne and Rich got caught in some more rain on the walk and were soaked through by the time they got back.  I actually had a 2 hour nana nap and woke up feeling just as tired.  I think the 5 weeks of the trip are catching up a little and I do need to recharge my batteries.  We all needed to get some local money, now that we were in yet another new country.  It seems in Kabala they will only accept USD and not EUR, so Sam said he would take out euro and use his USD for the exchange and that we would be back soon.  Well he also got caught up in the storm while he was in town, and took shelter in a gold miner’s house for the storm to pass.  He came back and for my 100EUR worked out to be 135USD and then that got me 580,000 Leones.  The rate was 4300 to the dollar, so again we are going to be working with the large denominations for Sierra Leone.  Luckily I am good at my 5 times tables!!!!!

At 5pm, everyone was awake and back, so Zoe and a few others went in search for some beers and bought some from a shop just down the road from us.  While they were out Sam was stringing away on his guitar on the balcony when I heard him talking to an American lady, well she was young, but a lady all the same.  She has been in Sierra Leone for 2.5 months and 2.5 weeks in Kabala.  She is an NGO completing a module for her university degree and her organization is introducing working cattle (ie: cows) back into the local communities as they were desiccated during the civil war.  She was super chatty and after a few minutes she said to Sam that if she was talking too much to just tell her so, but she hasn’t had a good English conversation with some-one in over 2 months.  Even though they speak English in the country, there are just some western things/sayings that just cannot be explained to some-one that wouldn’t get the joke/inference.  After relocating to Kenya in January, it took me nearly 10 weeks before I met people and made friends, so I know exactly just how she feels and to have some westerners blow in for the night must have just made her day, and to have a chat over a beer on the balcony would have been an unexpected blessing indeed.           

Today signifies a week until the end of this leg.  The end of just the 5 of us on the truck as the numbers swell to 12 for the last 3 weeks.  It also means we have exactly 4 weeks left of the whole trip (where has the time gone) and 5 weeks until I am back in Australia.  I haven’t had too much time to count days and even think about Australia at the moment and I know that that is a good sign that this trip is going so well.  Time is just flying by and they say that time flies when you are having fun, and indeed we are doing just that.  Maybe not today as we have all been hit with the lethargic stick, but this pioneering thing really takes it out of you, and so does the heat.  It is expected to have days like this and we are just lucky that we are all having ‘that day’ on the same day!

Dinner was a simple fare of chicken and chips and I LOVE chicken, but I have not eaten so much chicken before arriving into West Africa.  99% of the time, if we are eating in guest houses or simple accommodations, the choice seems to always be chicken or fish and tonight’s dinner, we didn’t even get a choice, was just chicken.  So I do consider myself a little bit of chicken connoisseur now and to date, the best chicken I had was my braised chicken dish in Yamoussoukro a few weeks ago, it was divine and I am sure the menu options will not expand too much the further north we head.  It’s chicken, chicken, and chicken for me and if we get to Freetown and there us a KFC (Kentucky Fried Chicken) I am not going to be that over chicken and I will be in there quicker than you can say ‘more chicken’ and ordering a 2 piece feed with chips and gravy.  Oh my, my mouth is salivating already.  We tend to do this, as a group, when we are hungry, or eating our tuna sandwiches for lunch for the 4th day in a road, we talk about the food we love and what we will eat when we get home and KFC is high on the list with me.  We do have KFC in Nairobi, but there is not one my side of town, so even when I am back in Kenya, it is always a treat to be having it there as well.  

Over dinner we also had to discuss what we would be doing for the last 6 days of the trip.  As Tiwai Island Sanctuary has closed, it has thrown our itinerary into a bit of a spin and we now need to re-jig what we plan to do with those 2 missing nights.  There seem to be 2 options.  One is to still head east, where Tiwai was located and push on a little further as there are 2 national parks out there we could see, but the condition of the roads are unknown and also what animal we would see, this option sounded like a lot of time in the truck for little to no reward at the end.  The other option was to head west, and take our time along the famous beaches of Sierra Leone, there seem to be plenty of things to see and do in this part of the country and the travel days would not be as long, we are on tarmac roads and there was a lot more information in Bradt and the Lonely Planet on this section of the country than the east.  Either way, we had to head to Makeni tomorrow anyway before we had to branch out for either itinerary, but I am pretty sure I know which way I want to go, but it will be a majority rules, with a vote to be cast tomorrow which will decide where we will be for the last week, before arriving into the capital, Freetown.  So it was a short day on the truck, a relax day in the afternoon which I think we all needed it.  Every single one of us. 


Tomorrow we push on to Makeni and from there, who knows. 


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