Breakfast at 9am
Sleep till 12 noon
Yes this day has mirrored the last 2 days. I could get used to this.
I was supposed to have lunch with Minalu again, but he
got held up doing some work and Lemma came over instead. Lemma was one of the 4 drivers that I had on
my very first trip to Ethiopia doing the south of the country back in 2011. We always have got along well and I have seen
him again on 2 of my visits back to the country. He is really quite sweet, as he still has my
thankyou note that I wrote for all our 4 drivers and one for Minalu when out
trip finished in October 2011 and he always shows me with pride that he still
has it every time we meet. So we sat in
the guesthouse lounge for half an hour or so catching up and after receiving a
phone call that M was running late, we decided to go for lunch and he could
join us when he had finished doing his jobs.
I wonder what my guesthouse is thinking at this stage with the coming
and going of all these men! Lemma makes
the 4th man in 3 days that has come to the guesthouse to see me-oh
yes I am a very popular lady that is for sure!!! Ha ha ha ha ha.
Along with everything else in this area, we were walking
distance to our lunch stop in an English translation of ‘meat house’. It is basically the Ethiopian version of the
Kenyan Nyama Choma with the meat hanging off hooks, you selecting the piece of
meat you want, the amount that you want and then you take a seat inside and
wait for it to be cooked and served. The
only difference is what takes the Kenyans 1.2 hours to get the meal to your
table, the Ethiopians take 15 minutes-yes the service is far better here than
in Kenya that is for sure. I just
thought we were having the normal tibs which is generally meat along with
vegetables which are sautéed to make tibs and can be served in a
variety of manners and can range from hot to mild or contain little to no
vegetables. There are many variations of tibs, depending on type and size
or shape of the cuts of meat used. This
is my favourite dish of Ethiopia. But
what came out was a different version of tibs called shekla tibs (meaning clay)
and was sautéed meat served on a hot clay pot, sizzling with a flame underneath
it. To give you a picture the pot looked
like an oil burner and it smelt delicious.
Generally it is pot roasted mutton served sizzling hot with Rosemarie,
onion, Garlic, Chili and
Traditional spice. The meat was BBQ’d
and this is now my most favourite Ethiopian dish. Shelka tibs!
So served with the staple of injera which is a large sourdough flatbread which is about 50
centimetres in diameter and made out of fermented teff flour and it is rolled
on the large metal plate and ripped with your hands and used to pick up the
pieces of cubed meat from the clay pot.
We washed this down with a local beer called St George and we continued
to chat the afternoon away sharing the meal.
One of Lemma’s work colleagues, Ermias, came down from the office to
meet me, and had a beer with us before heading back and Minalu arrived half way
through the meal, so he was able to get something to eat in the end. For the meal and the 3 beers only cost 99
birr which is 5.50AUD!
With
Ermias back to the office, Minalu had some more things to get done; Lemma
walked me back to my guesthouse and with a hug goodbye and a promise to see him
again in May I went back to my room to chill.
Minalu called a short while later and it seemed it was my turn to host
‘khat’ and Lemma came back, Minalu arrived and then another one of Minalu’s
friends, Fekadu, who I had meet the first day arrived with the ‘goods’ and we
then settled in for the afternoon using the guesthouse Wi-Fi, watching MTV and
‘chewing. I must admit I have it easy
when it comes to the chewing as I don’t pick the leaves-M does all that for me
and we have a system that he picks some leaves and puts them in a spot for me
and when that spot becomes empty he would just top it up with more leaves. Oh yes I am very spoiled and Lemma was also
helping on occasion and even had a packed hand of leaves that he fed directly
into my mouth. This typically can be
done with injera and is called gursha, which is an act of friendship and
love. When eating injera, a person uses his or her right hand to strip off a
piece, wraps it around some wat or kitfo, and then puts it into
his or her mouth. During a meal with friends or family, it is a common custom
to feed others in the group with your hands by putting the rolled injera or a
spoon full of other dishes into another's mouth. This is called a gursha,
and the larger the gursha, the stronger the friendship or bond. It seems out of place for a ‘westerner’ like
me but it is a cultural heritage here and I was humbled by the gesture.
I have
been telling the boys and also Minalu’s boss how cheap I got the airfares to
come up to Addis. I only paid 89AUD each
way and they were all surprised on how cheap that was. I told them I had checked all sorts of dates
and these prices were consistent. Minalu
has been talking about coming to Kenya and with the flights so cheap it seems
more do-able than ever before. To prove
to them that the flights really are that cheap, while I had internet I looked
up the prices and I picked an August date from Nairobi to Addis and it was
89AUD and then I just reversed the itinerary Addis to Nairobi using exactly the
same date and it was 239AUD!!!
WHAT? Well that doesn’t seem very
fare does it? There is obviously a lot
more business heading to Kenya than vice versa with the price difference of the
flights. What a bugger.
No mirror
day is complete without the afternoon storm and the loss of the power. Luckily the guesthouse have a lantern that
has been charging the last few days, so as the day faded we were able to switch
that on and then we decided to pack it all in after all the khat was finished
and head to Crystals for my last full night in Addis. The time has gone so fast and I have met a
bunch of new people as well as catching up with old friends and all in all I
have had an amazing trip and it all wouldn’t have been possible without Minalu,
David, Lemma, Zeme (yes I’ll include him), Fekadu and some else who’s name I
have forgotten (sorry).
So we
finished off the day back at Crystals, but it was a sombre affair with Minalu
not feeling so well, David had gone home and it was my last night. In saying that it didn’t stop us from having
a one last ½ bottle of vodka and a few beers and at 1am again we headed home. The area where we are isn’t far from
the airport, Minalu’s place, Dave’s place, the bars and local restaurants. Everything is walking distance. It’s a great little area and probably where I
would be living if I had of moved here.
Rent here seems to be cheaper than Nairobi at around 2000-2600 birr a
month (111AUD-144AUD), but apparently those prices are going up as the economy
improves and the wages are not, so as the leases come up, people will have to
move further from the city to be able to still afford a place to live. I guess it happens in any city and Addis
Ababa is just catching up with the times which are unfortunate for its
residents. The new housing that I have
seen popping up is apparently for the richer folks of town, which is a shame as
how can the ‘normal’ johnny afford a new dwelling with the increase of housing?
I LOVE Ethiopia and I think one day it will be more
‘western’ for a gal to live-tourism and the economy is just going through the
roof. Even from my very first trip to
now I have seen the completion of the ring road, upgrade of one of the major
roads in the city, the Radisson Blu opening and the lions that have been in the
city park for the last 27 years getting relocated to bigger location. Yes one day ….. but as much as I love the
country and the people, my time for now is in Kenya. That is my home and I am still happy with
choice.
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